What ingredients to look for in creams for problem skin? Why, when acne worsens, you should not immediately cleanse your face and how to cleanse the skin with rashes? Doctors dermatocosmetologists explain how to care for problem skin and what products to refuse if you have acne.
1. Do not overdry the skin and do not cauterize the rash
Alexandra Gont, dermatologist-cosmetologist, founder of the Center for innovative technologies of rejuvenation "My aesthetics Dr. Gont":
“When girls have age-related rashes, they start to burn them vigorously. Any alcoholic lotions and gels are used, and total dehydration of the skin begins. And dehydrated skin is equated with sensitive skin and reacts violently to everything: water, change of cream, airplanes, weather. In such cases, skin allergies often occur, the rash becomes even more, and age-related changes develop even faster.
Alcohol cosmetics can only be used locally on a pimple, if it is one, but not on the entire chin, forehead and cheeks!"
2. Use day creams with matting and anti-inflammatory ingredients.
Olga Gurkina, Chief physician of the Lasmed clinic, dermatologist, laser therapist, trichologist:
“Caffeine tightens pores and reduces redness. Niacinamide (water-soluble vitamin B3) stimulates microcirculation and renews the skin. Silicon regulates the activity of the sebaceous glands and naturally mattifies the skin.
I recommend UltrProtective Daily Moisturiser SPF 30+ Mattifying from Ultraceuticals. It contains many plant components, including silicon. Absorbs quickly and leaves a feeling of freshness.
Another effective remedy is Effalcar Duo + Niacinamide Cream Gel from LRoche-Posay. Relieves itching, blocks bacteria on the surface of the skin and has an anti-inflammatory effect. Linoleic acid prevents thickening of the walls of the sebaceous hair follicle.
3. Use night creams with vitamin B3
Natalya Beglyarova, biochemist, geneticist, expert of the Center for Molecular Diagnostics of the Central Research Institute of Epidemiology of Rospotrebnadzor:
“The main task of vitamin B3 is to restore the barrier functions of the skin. The component promotes cell renewal, increases tone and elasticity, and also has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect (by the way, inflammation can lead to a decrease in collagen synthesis). Niacinamine is an antioxidant that fights free radicals, one of the causes of premature aging. It helps to soften the skin, neutralize redness, and is effective against acne and other breakouts."
4. Cleanse your skin not only in the evening, but also in the morning
Victoria Filimonova, independent beauty expert and dermatocosmetologist:
“Proper cleansing is the key to the health of problem skin. Morning wash should not be skipped, because bacteria are active at night. Wash your face thoroughly with foam or gel (but not with milk), and then apply a toner that restores the pH of the skin.
5. Wash your face with cool water
Viktoria Goncharuk, dermatocosmetologist, specialist of the O2 beauty and aesthetic services center:
“Frequent washing will not make your skin less oily. This can have the opposite effect: provoke increased work of the sebaceous glands - with the help of sebum, the body tries to moisturize dry skin. To get rid of acne, it is important to maintain the hydrolipidic and acidic barriers. Wash your face with cool water using gels with neutral pH - hot water expands the ducts of the sebaceous glands.
6. Use tonic regularly
Viktoria Honcharuk: “After cleansing, be sure to use a tonic - it is necessary to neutralize the alkaline environment, which creates an excellent atmosphere for infections. Read the composition! Ideally, the tonic contains herbal extracts with a soothing and antibacterial effect of chamomile, aloe, calendula, tea tree."
7. Do not scrub your skin yourself
Victoria Goncharuk: “I am an opponent of scrubs! Abrasive particles compromise the integrity of the skin and can spread infection all over the face - be careful. Damaging the surface of purulent elements, the scrub spreads the infection to the face. Result: the appearance of new rashes. Gels and cleansing foams containing abrasive particles are also prohibited. With such care, it will be difficult to beat acne."
8. When treating acne, use the remedies prescribed by your doctor for at least three weeks.
Viktoria Goncharuk: “Treatment of acne takes time - all funds are prescribed in a course of three weeks or more. This is the only way to achieve a long-term positive result. Why? The complete skin renewal cycle lasts 28 days. After that, she needs time to restore the hydrolipid barrier (from 2 to 6 weeks). Sometimes during treatment, an exacerbation can be observed - this is the norm! If you refuse to use the selected funds earlier than the deadline appointed by the specialist, the problem will not go away."
9. Before treating acne, get a blood test
Viktoria Honcharuk: “To determine the cause of acne in adulthood, a specialist prescribes a blood test for hormones to assess the function of the thyroid gland. Only after that is the treatment selected."
10. See the composition of decorative cosmetics
Victoria Goncharuk: “It should not contain alcohols (dry out the skin) and oils (form a film, disrupting metabolic processes). It's great if the ingredients include aloe extract, retinols, peptide 10 - they have wound healing and bactericidal properties."
11. Wash sponges and brushes regularly
Viktoria Honcharuk: “Dirty sponges are an ideal breeding ground for bacteria. When you apply the tone, they get on the face and cause inflammation and purulent rashes. Wash and disinfect brushes at least once a week."
12. Use BB creams
Olga Gurkina: “You want to mask oily and especially problem skin with tonal means, but as a result you get an extra layer on your face, the skin starts to shine even more noticeably. I recommend using a light BB cream - sometimes it can even replace the usual one (see the composition - it should contain a lot of caring components). But in the eye area it is better to use a cream or serum anyway - this is a dry area even for people with oily skin."
13. Discuss the possibility of laser treatment with your beautician if you have acne
Victoria Goncharuk: “One of the most modern methods of complex acne treatment. The method is based on the effect of light radiation on porphyrin, a waste product of bacteria that cause acne. The substance becomes active and enters into a reaction, as a result of which a new one is formed, which attacks the cells of the pathogenic bacteria Propionibacterium Acnes. Roughly speaking: bacteria destroy themselves.
I want to draw your attention: the course is selected individually. The number of procedures required depends on the amount of inflammatory elements and the dynamics of treatment."
14. Do not use moisturizers with mineral oils in the composition
Irina Nikolaeva, professional cosmetologist, beauty blogger and founder of the IRC and IRUSHKA cosmeceutical brands:
“Mineral oil creates an invisible film on the skin, so the pores are clogged. The processes of microcirculation are disrupted and not only the problems associated with acne are aggravated, but the quality of the skin as a whole worsens, it becomes thinner, the complexion fades. That is why these ingredients are extremely undesirable and even dangerous in the composition of moisturizers for skin care."
15. Make peels based on salicylic or glycolic acid
Irina Gnedina, cosmetologist at the White Garden health and beauty center:
“In the cold season, complement the treatment with chemical peels based on salicylic or glycolic acid. Almond peels can be done in summer. If there is inflammation on the skin, try cryotherapy, gas-liquid peeling (it evens out the stratum corneum well). The sequence of procedures is determined by a specialist."
16. Do cleansing masks once a week.
Irina Gnedina: “I recommend using professional tools, but simpler ones work well. Clay masks dry out the skin, so do them 2 times a week. Once the clay is dry, remove it immediately. At home, you can make an aspirin-based mask (aspirin tablet + honey). Aspirin brightens the skin well, gives it radiance and evens out the color."
17. When on holiday, use sunscreen with physical filters.
Victoria Filimonova: “Chemical filters are often comedogenic. Look for physical / mineral filters (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) on the packaging.
When you arrive at the sea and are just starting to sunbathe, the illusion of clean, fresh skin can be created. But as soon as you get home, the acne will worsen. This is due to the fact that in the sun the local immunity decreases and the hyperplasia of the sebaceous glands increases (the epidermis thickens). The sebum has accumulated, and it is difficult for him to "get out" - and this is how the exacerbation begins."
18. Don't squeeze acne
Viktoria Filimonova: “You don't know how to do it correctly, and you touch your face with dirty hands. So you can bring the infection and make the inflammation even deeper, get an atrophic scar (scar), and not get rid of acne forever."
19. Use light vibes if you have oily skin.
Andrey Alenichev, dermatocosmetologist. Director of the Clinical Institute of Aesthetic Medicine (KIEM):
“The tendency to care for oily skin when it was dried is gone. Cosmetologists and cosmetic brands finally understood: alcohol-containing components that lead to dry skin and peeling only aggravate the situation - the sebaceous glands begin to work even more actively in response. Do not overdry, but also give up on too oily creams, preferring light fluids. Greasy creams clog pores and cause greasiness."
20. Look for whey enzymes in your skincare products.
Andrey Alenichev: “An excellent component for oily skin! Lactoferrin, lactoperoxidase - whey enzymes. Does not irritate, has a slight moisturizing effect, delicately removes blackheads, increases the skin's immunity. These ingredients are found in LindKristel Concentrate Fluid 53 and have good comedolytic properties."
21. Do not buy ointments and gels with antibiotics without a doctor's appointment
Elena Dobrogorskaya, dermatovenerologist. Specialist of the Central Institute of Dermatocosmetology:
“Antibiotics contain advertised gels and ointments for the treatment of acne. Never buy them without a prescription (available without a prescription) - they can dry out your skin and worsen its condition. They lead to a decrease in local immunity - if the application is canceled, the rashes can become even more!
Antibiotics are often included in acne treatments. But only a cosmetologist can correctly calculate the dose and duration of admission, as well as select the drug.
22. Do not use products with vitamin A without a doctor's prescription
Elena Dobrogorskaya: “A harmless vitamin can play a cruel joke on you: products based on it (Roaccutane, Acnekutan) have many side effects. Incorrectly calculated dose and duration of administration can lead to impaired liver function, dry mucous membranes.
Topical application of vitamin A (topically) can lead to retinoic dermatitis (redness, burning, peeling), conjunctivitis and other unpleasant consequences of acne treatment. When prescribing such drugs, the doctor always backs them up with other effective prescriptions aimed at minimizing unwanted drug reactions and achieving a good result."
23. Do not use hormonal creams with glucocorticosteroids
Elena Dobrogorskaya: “Nowadays there are a lot of advertisements for hormonal creams containing glucocorticosteroids (GCS), which are presented as a remedy for any misfortune (not only against acne), be it acne or allergies. Patients with complications after uncontrolled intake of GCS creams regularly come to my appointment. Long-term use of such funds requires gradual withdrawal.
Most hormonal preparations contain fluoride, which, when exposed to sunlight, has a negative effect on the condition of the skin. Don't believe the ads! If the ointment contains GCS, do not use it. With acne, hormonal drugs are contraindicated - they lead to an exacerbation of the disease."
24. Do not cleanse if there are purulent elements and acne on the skin.
Elena Dobrogorskaya: “It would seem, what is wrong with“cleaning”your face if you suffer from acne? In the absence of inflammatory elements, the presence of a small number of mature pustules, parallel antibiotic therapy and cleaning under aseptic conditions - nothing. But with a large number of purulent elements, the presence of nodules, cysts, acne, pronounced seborrhea, run to the nearest beauty salon for cleaning, or, which is more common among patients, it is forbidden to "clean" the face on its own - there is every chance to aggravate the situation. Visit your doctor first, administer therapy aimed at reducing inflammation. Only then can you resort to mechanical stress."
25. To understand the cause of the rash, exclude dairy products from the diet for 6 months
Julia Elina, dermatocosmetologist:
“We include milk, even skimmed milk, and ice cream among them. These foods increase the level of sugar and the hormone insulin IGF1, which leads to an increase in the production of dihydrotestosterone in the blood (and this is a change in the composition of skin lipids and the differentiation of keratinocytes (surface cells). This leads to follicular hyperkeratosis (accumulation of dead skin cells both on the surface and and inside the pore.) Hyperkeratosis results in skin clogging and inflammation. Bodybuilders who consume cocktails with casein, whey protein and very large amounts of milk to build muscle often suffer from acne.
26. Do not eat foods with trans fats and spicy foods
Yulia Elina: “The secretion of sebum increases from the use of spicy foods. The stress hormone cortisol is produced, which increases sebum secretion. Even coffee can have this effect. Trans fats are also enemies of healthy skin, they provoke acne, activating the production of sebum and keratinization of the pores, which quickly clogs the pores. It will be much more difficult to get rid of acne with them. Smoking can also cause inflammation (and these pimples produce acne and acne)."
27. Add lemon balm, sage, thyme, rosemary to dishes
Yulia Elina: “These herbs contain rosmarinic acid, a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory component. For acne, antioxidant-rich foods are often prescribed. They suppress cellular inflammatory mediators and fight free radicals. Another good source of antioxidants is kelp. I especially recommend these products to owners of oily skin."
28. Eat foods with zinc
Yulia Elina: “Oysters, peanuts, pumpkin seeds are rich in zinc - a trace element that helps the skin keratinization process, participates in creating a protective barrier and promotes skin regeneration (this is important for scar healing), and is also an antioxidant. For example, 100 g of oyster contains 60 mg of zinc. You can also add beef, lamb, cashews, beef liver, chicken to the list of healthy foods.
29. Your diet must necessarily contain foods with polyunsaturated fatty acids
Yulia Elina: “Eating fish rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (mackerel, salmon, tuna, sardines) reduces the likelihood of acne formation. Fatty acids have an anti-inflammatory effect and are part of the membranes of all cells in the body. That is why dermatocosmetologists prescribe Omega 3,6,9 to patients as part of a healthy diet. Only with the right diet will you beat acne forever."
30. Be careful with iodine-containing foods
Victoria Filimonova: “This is a controversial topic, but more and more studies appear that iodine causes inflammatory processes. The excretion of iodine through the sebaceous glands can be accompanied by skin irritation and lead to acne formation. But, as with other products, the main thing is to know when to stop. Seaweed, seafood, mushrooms, legumes, eggs, sorrel, spinach, onions, persimmons - all these products contain iodine."